The takeaways from the SS27 runways

The shift in attitude that has been building in fashion over the past few seasons spilled into playful maximalism on the runways of SS27, as designers channelled a spirit of individualism. At one end of the spectrum, the clean-girl aesthetic transitioned into what trend forecaster WGSN called “messy girl summer” and “free-style expression”, and at the other end into edgy glamour, giving rise to voluminous form, frills and fringing, and a move towards underwear as statement wear. The mantle “sex sells” became explicit with designers leaning into subculture eroticism, skin-baring silhouettes, and the smouldering sensuality of high-cut leotards and bodysuits that, when paired with structured tuxedos, recalled the strength and androgyny embodied by Grace Jones and the bold aesthetic of artist Patrick Nagel in the ‘80s.

Art’s symbiosis with fashion was surveyed: the work of Lee Miller became a part of the storytelling at Ferragamo, the suspended mobiles of Alexander Calder were referenced at Givenchy and Georgia O'Keeffe’s signature palette became an inspiration at Lanvin. And while talk of “trends” is meaningless, there was something in the zeitgeist - with creative strategists Peclers Paris framing fashion as a "joyful and liberating space for self-expression in a world shaped by economic and geopolitical anxieties”. This also gave meaning to a grounding of sorts: a return to calmer (dare we say, soothing) tones and expressions in black and white, alongside lighter, fluid silhouettes, and elevated functionality. Everyday shirts and accessories mixed with sequins and beading, sheers fused with solid fabrics, and buckle-up – statement belts are back.

Underwear as outerwear
Underwear worn as outerwear conjured cool confidence on the runway. Bras and bralettes were declared as “the new T-shirt” by British Vogue and boudoir dressing stood out at London Fashion Week, continuing in Milan and Paris as Prada, Miu Miu, Fendi, Tom Ford, Givenchy and Chloe translated a new language of expression – sensual femininity reframed as personal empowerment for the modern women. At Chloe, bralettes worn as tops were floaty and lace fringed, while Prada and Fendi’s bra and bandeau tops had a fresh, sporty feel. At Tom Ford and Valentino, the pieces were structured and jewel toned – elegant, assertive, liberating. 

Fringes, frills and feathers
The thrills and spills of fringing, ruffles, frills and feathers gave rise to dynamic, voluminous silhouettes that came alive with movement. Sarah Burton explored fringing at Givenchy, creating striking pieces dissolving into tendrils that caught the air when models walked – the impact exaggerated by fringed-finished bracelets and shoes. Louise Trotter’s Bottega Veneta show presented skirts rippling with movement, alongside supersized straw and raffia bags and flowing sashes tied around waists, while Dolce & Gabbana showcased a standout skirt of oversized flowers with a flowing black fringed hem. Nicolas Ghesquière's women's ready-to-wear collection for Louis Vuitton was staged in the Cour Carrée of the Louvre amongst inert flying cars, signalling a move towards a philosophy of weightlessness and fluid motion.

Jonathan Anderson softened Dior’s traditional house codes with ruffles, plissé jacquards and soft-focus silhouettes, while Nadège Vanhée at Hermès brought edge to pared-back ensembles with skirts and dresses falling into fringed hems. More than a few feathers were ruffled by Alessandro Michele at his stunning Valentino show within the historic reading room of Paris's Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève. The designer effortlessly mixed styles – leaning heavily into 80s excess in the form of big bows and ruffles. Anthony Vaccarello brought the drama at his final Saint Laurent show in Paris on a chandelier-crowned outdoor stage at the Trocadéro fountain. His gold-dipped collection culminated in to-die-for voluminous ruffled black gowns – his final word at the house was the ultimate expression of glamour. 

In the mix
Alessandro Michele summoned the everyday extrovert at Valentino’s Antibiblioteca show. He paired a checked shirt with a sheer jewel embellished skirt (utterly stunning!), and teamed feather-fringed and embellished pieces with everyday baseball caps, some sporting the logo “Villain Teen”. What some journalists called “intentional messiness” was viewed as a clap-back to AI perfection. 

Dolce and Gabbana did this with aplomb at their "Stravaganza Siciliana" show. Their coded animal prints featured insane embellishment – including a bejewelled jacket with jade beading in leopard print. Beadwork recreating the pattern of coral reefs elevated a pair of ripped jeans and a standout jacket, and the designers fused pieces “from different generations” - the pieces intended to recall treasured heirlooms passed down through families. A slogan t-shirt peeked beneath an animal print fringed bouclé tweed jacket; and a crochet skirt was teamed with animal print and lace. 

Designers also moved to lighter, fluid silhouettes swathed in layered sheers. Anok Yai walked in a flowing sheer dress in a show-stopping moment at Pierpaolo Piccioli's show for Balenciaga, and at Ferragamo Maximilian Davis brought a fresh twist to barely-there dressing, fusing sheer and solid fabrics with elegance. At Gucci, creative director Demna unveiled his "complete personal vision" for the house referencing its core DNA. "The Store Show," explored the tension between polished bourgeois respectability and eccentric provocation.

Buckle up
Statement belts were a key takeaway from the SS27 runways. Think oversized, ornate and multi-buckle belts, and artful belt stacking. At Celine, creative director Michael Rider cinched waists with giant gold buckles bringing bold contrast to pared-back ensembles. Dolce and Gabbana piled on the glamour with gemstone styles, while Valentino’s double-belt look came in gemstone or western hardware. Demna underlined a multifaceted menswear collection with multi-buckle and horse bit belts at Gucci. And both Nadège Vanhée at Hermès and Maximilian Davis at Ferragamo conjured dresses with belt detailing.

The romantic rebel
Glamour is reframed, segueing from old-school to romantic noir and goth-inspired looks. In New York, Ralph Lauren wowed with an "irreverent take on romance," featuring floor-skimming column gowns, single-seam fluid wrap dresses, metallic chiffon and sheer florals. In Milan, Alessandro Michele’s Valentino finale included striking column evening gowns with ornate ruffles and fishtail detailing. And Anthony Vaccarello’s midas touch at Saint Laurent culminated in a collection of classic house archetypes – safari jackets, trench coats, fluid blouses, wrap skirts, sharp tailoring – dripping in metallic gold lamé, brocade, and gold-leaf latex. There were glimmers of gold at Dolce & Gabbana too in the form of glinting animal print. Dark, dramatic aesthetics also transitioned into 2027. Runways featured all-black looks, sheer lace overlays, ruffles and leather – romance, but with the drama of a gothic novella.