The highs of London Fashion Week

THE SHOWSTOPPERS

11 of the best shows

Erdem

Erdem stood out at this year’s Fashion Week. His Spring 2027 ready-to-wear runway featured a striking contrast of showgirl style channelled through crystal-embellished tops, boudoir lingerie and glittering panties paired with high-collared Edwardian shirts, sharp tuxedo jackets and fringed scarves. The designer drew inspiration from the iconic American trapeze artist, high-wire performer, and female impersonator Barbette who performed in glittering attire and was the toast of 1920s Paris.

Harris Reed

Harris Reed’s 11th collection entitled Loud Whispers marked his first show since leaving his role as creative director at Nina Ricci – and the five-year anniversary of showing his eponymous label at London Fashion Week. The ensemble, in a palette of white, ivory, cream, and soft metallics was stripped of superfluous colour, emphasising the architectural construction, exaggerated corsetry, and sculpted hip lines of the pieces.

Natasha Zinko

Staged at the Collins Music Theatre in Islington, Zinko teamed up with OnlyFans and high-profile figures like Kelly Osbourne, The Sopranos star Drea de Matteo, and Katie Price to explore the role of the voyeur. Cue fetish-inspired designs in glossy pink latex, sheer fabrics, and exposed underwear mixed with streetwear worn by models who worked the pieces from the balconies of the building. The looks were highly wearable and included pencil skirts and blouses with exaggerated neck bows and frothing white ruffles.

Roksanda Ilinčić

Roksanda Ilinčić's SS27 show was held on the rooftop of London’s National Theatre. The collection brought the drama: frayed trims and multi-coloured fringing – a nod to the fabric sculptures of textile artist Françoise Grossen – that moved and billowed organically. The show culminated in show-stopping gowns, which included an oxblood strapless dress and a glossy jet-black evening gown featuring an asymmetric neckline and exaggerated, rigid, curved pannier-like bustles worn by model Erin O'Connor.

Joyce Bao

London-based Chinese designer Bao utilised clever draping, sheer inserts, and tulle to create floor-grazing, open-back column gowns and strapless dresses in clean, sophisticated silhouettes. A recurring signature was her floral lace print inspired by traditional Chinese porcelain.

Petra Fagerström

Staged in the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN space at 180 Studios, the London-based Swedish designer’s SS27 collection entitled "Swedish Summer" subverted 1940s and 1950s "tradwife" hourglass silhouettes into a stronger, tougher aesthetic. Fagerström fused delicate lace and floral prints with corseted black leather and sharp tailoring, while lenticular pleating created optical illusions.

Mowalola

Mowalola returned to the codes of sensuality and “radical liberation of self” in a collection entitled The Hunger. She placed the female body centre-stage, seen through a second-skin of chiffon or accentuated by linear leathers. Pencil skirts were juxtaposed with snakeskin waistbands; suede underwear with glossy leathers and perspex jewellery emphasised animal prints. Lingerie was conceived as office-wear – what she described as “hyper-minimalist tailoring rendered sheer”.

Patrick McDowell

Patrick McDowell presented "Love", a collection drawing inspiration from the romantic cinema of Wong Kar-wai’s In the Mood for Love alongside early 1960s American socialite style defined by figures like Lee Radziwill and Jackie Kennedy. He leaned into sophisticated femininity: polished silhouettes and pretty floral motifs accentuated by splashes of upbeat colour.

Oscar Ouyang

Oscar Ouyang’s "Cygnet" show featured sharp, formal tailoring subverted to feel undone; ruffles added flowing movement to line and he worked crocheted pieces woven with metallic yarns. Silver tassels swung from knits, and his crochet-beaded pine cone and fern embroideries drew inspiration from silverware and antique trinkets.

Dreaming Eli

Elisa Trombatore’s label ramped up the dark romanticism, exposed corsetry and lingerie-coded femininity it is known for. Looks had a time-worn, heirloom feel amped up with a sexy, sassy edge.

McQueen

The brand's highly anticipated return to London Fashion Week after 25 years under creative director Seán McGirr channelled the "dark angel" aesthetic and archival callbacks from jewellery designer Shaun Lean. Three bespoke menswear looks made with Huntsman Savile Row used heritage British wool, while diaphanous dresses were contained by rigid steel and leather body harnesses. Standouts looks included a skull chainmail dress.