Three standout shows from New York Fashion Week 2026

Ralph Lauren

Presented at Tribeca's historic Clock Tower Building (9th September), Ralph Lauren’s Spring 2027 ready-to-wear runway ushered in a spirit of romance. The designer, who is approaching his 60th anniversary in fashion, conjured old-school glamour: distilled into fluid, poured-on silhouettes, one-shoulder gowns and column dresses crafted from liquid-like metallic silk lamé. And to the tune of Sting’s “Every Little Thing She Does Is Magic", Lauren played with juxtapositions: flashes of liquid gold paired with simpler separates, and feminine florals (such as cropped jackets) combined with wide leg trousers, pinstripes and distressed jeans – the tropes of corporate containment powered-down into soft, feminine wearability. There was also a nod to the neckwear that launched the designer’s career nearly six decades ago. Lauren teamed full-sleeved poplin shirts with exaggerated ties and accented pieces with elongated cummerbund belts.

Proenza Schouler

Creative director Rachel Scott’s Spring 2027 runway show (10th September) coalesced sharp tailoring with fluid draping and bold prints representative of strong, fierce women. Playful prints dominated the runway. Zebra stripes flashed across skirts, coats and dresses in dramatic black-and-white and red-and-black colourways, and tiger print oozed sex appeal on silk plissé, hand-knit intarsia and when fused with leather. The rose also emerged as a dominant motif, serving as a feminist emblem derived from cyanotypes of real flowers. Diaphanous draping added fluidity to the ensemble in the form of flowing gowns, some sequin-embellished and shimmering seductively under the light.

Cult Gaia

In a show titled Behesht (the Persian word for "heaven"), Cult Gaia staged its Spring/Summer 2027 runway (9th September) at the Gilder Center inside New York's American Museum of Natural History, presenting fluid silhouettes against a backdrop of organic architecture. Founder and creative director Jasmin Larian Hekmat, still processing the loss of her grandmother, Mommy Aghdas, explored the idea of beauty emerging after darkness, while honouring new beginnings by marking the label's transition into menswear. She opened the show with a tailored olive-hued suit, the collection gradually blossoming into sky blues, vibrant plissé fabrics, and sheer floral layers. Jackets worn by both men and women showcased a meticulous basketweaving technique, transforming the pieces into wearable sculpture. Interwoven throughout were flashes of sequins, heavy hand-beading, and a shimmering pair of standout knickers signifying a return to celebration. The show concluded with ethereal, hand-painted dip-dyed silk gowns that resembled delicate feathers, floating down the runway.

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