Twin Peaks
To stand before the mountains, rock rising before you, colossal, cinematic, is life affirming. Engulfed in this landscape one feels small but totally alive. The air is cleaner, the mind clearer, and every synapse inside the body is charged. This is nature’s reset: a renewal of mind and body that cannot be found in a supplement or fluorescent-lit gym. Add the charm of Alpine hotels and a focus on wellness and the shortest of escapes can be restorative. We head to the western-central side of the mountains to survey the best experiences in two resorts in the Swiss and French Alps
SWISS BLISS
The village of Wengen. Photography: Yura Lytkin at Unsplash
WENGEN
There is something wonderfully unpretentious about Wengen, a small Swiss village of traditional wooden chalets overlooking the three iconic peaks of the Bernese Alps: the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. It rests on a terrace 400 metres above the Lauterbrunnen valley – a corner of the world where meadow meets waterfall, which is said to have influenced J.R.R. Tolkien’s Rivendell – and is reached by a train that chugs up the steep incline through breathtaking scenery. It is a place to recharge, and a hiker’s and skier’s paradise. During the summer, the sound of cowbells drift in the air as you traverse well-trodden paths across the mountains – and nothing quite compares to climbing down the cliffside and emerging from woodland to sweeping vistas over Lauterbrunnen. During winter, the skiing in Wengen and nearby Grindelwald and Mürren is family friendly with easy access to the mountains via cable cars and trains. There’s also sledging, ice skating and winter walks to keep everyone occupied.
A view of Wengen from the Grand Hotel Belvedere. Photography: Lucas Dutertry
Where to stay:
Many of the hotels in this part of the world are simple and authentic, but for five-star comfort look to the Grand Hotel Belvedere, originally built in 1912 as a Belle Époque hotel, and reopened at the end of 2024 following an extensive renovation by the French hotelier Beaumier. It has 90 rooms, two restaurants, two bars, a terrace and a contemporary Susanne Kaufmann spa, which is an experience in itself: from the Japanese onsen-style indoor-outdoor pools, saunas and hammam, to treatments using natural Alpine botanicals – set against panoramic mountain views. Kaufmann also has a pop-up boutique (until March) where you can pick-up beauty essentials from the collection to take home.
What to do:
White Style Open The Big Air Contest (13th to 15th March in Mürren) The freestyle skiing and snowboarding competition takes place annually in the centre of this car-free village
Lauberhorn Run (29th March in Wengen) Enter the race to conquer the 1,028 metre vertical drop and the 4.5 kilometre World Cup downhill run from top to bottom – or, if you are feeling less energetic, just watch.
The lobby at the Grand Hotel Belvedere. Photography: Lucas Dutertry
Gstaad
A Bernese Oberland village of chocolate box chalets famed for its luxury boutiques and fine dining but imbued with a charm that belies the glamour. Talk to locals and they tell you of a time when actor Elizabeth Taylor called it home (she lived in Gstaad until her death in 1962), pointing out the house she lived in, and the bronze cow sculpture drinking from a communal water trough that was commissioned by Taylor's artist daughter, Liza Todd-Tivey, as a tribute to her mother. The people here are equally as proud of their world-class tennis and polo tournaments, and the Gstaad Menuhin Festival of classical concerts, as the village’s world-class skiing, and if you take a guided walking tour (highly recommended), you will fall for the stunning scenery. In winter, it offers extensive ski slopes across multiple areas (Eggli, Wispile, Glacier 3000 ) catering to all levels, from beginner-friendly runs to expert freeriding on the glacier.
A view of Gstaad village. Photography: Abhishek Navlakha at www.pexels.com
Where to stay:
There are several storied hotels in this region, including the famed Gstaad Palace, but The Alpina mixes impeccable service with a friendly approach and next level cuisine wrapped up in quiet luxury. There is also a focus on maintaining the privacy of guests, which includes underground arrival and parking. There’s 56 rooms and suites with a modern-rustic aesthetic that is akin to staying in a private chalet (each cost around £3.9mn to create), plus four restaurants (including the Michelin-starred Sommet), a private cinema, and a state-of-the-art Six Senses spa. It’s also just two miles from a ski lift. This month, the hotel is hosting live music evenings, which includes an appearance by the Voice UK winner Anthonia Edwards (on 31st January) and from 10th to 20th February is welcoming London's private members' club Harry's Bar, which will recreate its experience at the hotel.
What to do:
Maze Art Gstaad (19th to 22nd February) The village is transformed into a contemporary art hub during this festival showcasing a curation of works from international galleries, artists, collectors and jewellers.
Galerie Chastel-Maréchal with Hauser & Wirth, Chalet of Gunter Sachs (14th to 22nd February) As part of an exhibition in artistic collaboration with Valério Polimeno, designed by Ellie Peugeot, Galerie Chastel-Maréchal will lend some of its most iconic pieces to the exhibit, including floor lamps by Giacometti.
A view of The Alpina Gstaad. Photography courtesy of The Alpina Gstaad
FRENCH CHARM
A train rides through the mountains around Chamonix. Photography: Gregory Dalleau at Unsplash
Courchevel
A jet-set playground of Michelin-starred restaurants and designer boutiques with a glamorous nightlife. Part of the famous Three Valleys ski domain, one of the largest in the world with access to 600km of marked pistes, it is composed of five villages: Courchevel 1850, which is the most famous and luxurious; Courchevel Moriond (1,650m) and Courchevel Village (1,550m) are generally more family-friendly and less pretentious; Courchevel Le Praz (1,300m) is a traditional, charming French village with an authentic feel; and Courchevel La Tania (1,400m), which was purpose-built for the 1992 Winter Olympics and provides great access to the wider ski area at a more affordable price. The resort is considered excellent for all levels, from beginners to experts, due to its vast, well-groomed pistes and extensive lift system. In summer, the area is an idyll of hiking, mountain biking, climbing, golf, swimming and fishing.
The new Maya Hotel Courchevel 1850. Photography courtesy of Maya Hotel Courchevel
Where to stay:
Maya Hotel Courchevel 1850 is a new boutique hotel, which opened in December in the heart of Courchevel just 60m from the slopes. There are 14 rooms and the decor is embellished with detailing by Lalique – including a dedicated Lalique Suite. Expect good service and flexibility: it’s possible to connect rooms and suites, or book an entire floor as an independent chalet with full hotel services. The hotel is part of the Maya Collection, a hospitality group that began with Monaco's MayaBay Japanese-Thai restaurant, opened in 2007, and an outpost of the MayaBay has been created at this residence. Pampering is also a focus and advanced treatments are offered at Maya Well.
What to do:
Audi FIS Men's Alpine Ski World Cup (14th to 15th March, Courchevel Le Praz): The world's best skiers compete in Downhill (L'Éclipse) and Super-G events.
Les 3 Coups Theatre Festival (late March, Courchevel 1850) A festival dedicated to the dramatic arts with daily performances, workshops, and meetings with artists in locations such as the Auditorium Gilles de la Rocque.
A glimpse of Chamonix. Photography: Jonathan Fors at Unsplash
Chamonix
Nestled at the foot of Mont Blanc, this lively, cosmopolitan Alpine town is famed for its world-class mountaineering (it is widely considered the birthplace of the sport) and tough slopes – although it caters to skiers of all levels. It is also fabulous for shopping – here you can buy Moncler, alongside activewear from Patagonia and pick up selections of local cheeses – as well as fine dining. In summer the resort is a reverie where one can spend days mountain biking, paragliding and mountaineering, and it boasts the famed Aiguille du Midi cable car and Mer de Glace railway. If you are arriving in winter to ski, the valley features five areas: Grands Montets, located between 1,235 and 2,800 metres, is home to steep and deep challenging pistes (best for expert/off-piste); Le Brévent and La Flégère (2,525 metres) are the closest skiing areas to Chamonix’s main town centre (which are sunny and panoramic); Les Houches is a charming, traditional village at altitudes of between 1,000 and 1,900 metres with panoramic views (family-friendly/tree-lined); and Domaine de Balme, the gentlest of Chamonix's snowy areas, has over 140km of marked runs.
A snowy scene at Hôtel Mont-Blanc. Photography courtesy of Hôtel Mont-Blanc
Where to stay:
Hôtel Mont-Blanc The historic five-star hotel, which first opened in 1849, was acquired by the Taittinger family in 2010 and underwent major renovation by interior designer Sybille de Margerie, reopening in 2013 (but is now a member of H8 Collection group). It is small but beautiful, fusing traditional Alpine charm with contemporary chic. Encamped at the heart of the town it’s connected to all that is going on, but the bedrooms (some with panorama of mountains) in this 90-room residence are restful, and complemented by the 250m Clarins spa. There’s plenty to do around the hotel, from testing your swing on the nearby Golf Club de Chamonix golf course in the summer to skiing and mountaineering – the Aiguille du Midi Cable Car is also close by.
What to do:
Chamonix Unlimited Festival (March 25th to 29th): A major electronic music festival with parties at high-altitude locations.
Freeride Day (May 3rd): The legendary, high-energy closing party of the winter season. Expect skiing, a waterslide challenge, DJ sets, costume contests, and activities like speed runs and parêts.
