The best new scents
LOUIS VUITTON FANTASMAGORY
Master perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud meets architect Frank Gehry, who created this vessel crowned by a sculptural stopper in the form of a wind-blown flower. The fragrance, the 7th creation in the maison’s Les Extraits Collection, is an ode to vanilla, which is extracted from the entire pod and infused with notes of misty anise, almond for amaretto sweetness and the zing of ginger.
Extrait de Parfum Fantasmagory 100ml, ÂŁ455; louisvuitton.com
MIKIMOTOÂ x LALIQUE FORTUNE LEAVES, CRYSTAL EDITION
Fortune Leaves, Crystal Edition unites two heritage houses, Japanese jeweller Mikimoto and French glassmaker and jeweller Lalique, in an “artistic alliance” of fragrance and crystal. Marc Larminaux, artistic and creative director at Lalique conceived the crystal flagon, which takes the shape of a pearl bordered by a delicate field of clovers. Mikimoto was the first in the world to successfully culture a pearl, while the clover detailing represents luck and promise. Each base is mouth-blown into a custom mould, and the cap, also covered in clovers, is crafted using the lost-wax technique initially explored by René Lalique in 1893. Inside the vessel, the Essence of an Enchanted Garden fragrance by perfumer Alex Lee from Mane has an earthy green base of angelica seed and lentisque absolute, brightened by pink peppercorn, which turns to floral and aquatic notes softened by Orris and ambrette seed. Only 10 limited-edition pieces will be made worldwide, Extrait de Parfum, 285ml, £21,000; fr.lalique.com
LOEWE IRIS ROOT, BITTERSWEET OUD AND ROASTED VANILLA
Loewe’s commitment to craft extends to its recently launched olfactory lab, the Crafted Collection, which debuts three scents in flasks of handblown glass, each revealing the bubbles made during the creative process. Iris Root explores the creamy smoothness of iris rhizome, infused with Angelica seed, and citrusy Timut pepper. Bittersweet Oud is richer, contrasting oud with bitter orange and sandalwood; and Roasted Vanilla is sensual: the warmth of vanilla is grounded by oakwood and a spicy note of Pink pepper. Perfumes Crafted Collection 100ml, £365; Perfumesloewe.com
MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN PRECIOUS ELIXIRSÂ
The French perfumer’s holiday treats includes a new Grand Soir Elixirs presentation box of 4 x 4ml vials (£105) and the eau de parfum Travel Set containing a gold version of the Globe Trotter spray bottle with five 11ml refills (£235). There are also limited editions: the OUD satin mood Elixirs (£115), the Fragrance Ritual Set (£230), and a Sparkling Body Oil (£185). Grand Soir, a unisex amber- and vanilla-based fragrance, has notes of labdanum, benzoin, and tonka bean. OUD satin mood is a more sensual fusion of Laotian oud and Bulgarian and Turkish rose, rounded out by a sweet vanilla and amber base. maisonfranciskurkdjian.com/uk
PERFUME H ROSE WITH INSECT
As the name suggests, this fragrance is a beautifully subverted classic floral by perfumer Lyn Harris. The fragrance opens with notes of Bergamot Calabria, Mandarin Italy, Peach, and Neroli Tunisia. As it deepens, Cardamom India, Sandalwood, Papyrus, Birch, and Musk bring warmth and texture. Ionones and a trace of aldehydes represent “a glint of the insect’s wing” sharpened by cardamom, angelica, and pear. Eau de Parfum Spray Bottle 50ml, £160 and Handblown Bottle 100ml, £590; Perfumerh.com
ROJA LONDON HARRY POTTER BURLINGTON 1819
British perfumer Roja Dove has worked his magic on this Harry Potter-inspired limited-edition – a collaboration with Warner Bros. Harry Potter Burlington 1819 (50ml £225, 100ml £375) opens with sparkling grapefruit, ginger, and tobacco – notes intended to transport one to Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry. There is also a limited edition travel set of four 10ml travel sprays (£210). Each vial is representative of the houses Hufflepuff, Slytherin, Ravenclaw and Gryffindor. Both limited edtions are stocked exclusively at Burlington Arcade and rojalondon.com
FLORIS LONDON ROSE GERANIUM LIMITED EDITIONÂ
Marilyn Monroe is known for a certain signature scent but this heady floral and citrus fragrance was also favoured by the actress. In 1959, while staying at London’s Claridge’s Hotel, she ordered six bottles from the perfumer’s nearby St. James’s boutique and had them shipped to California. The limited-edition eau de parfum has a base of cedarwood, with heart notes of palmarosa, rose and rosewood, and top notes of citronella, green and geranium. Eau de Parfum 100ml £220; florislondon.com
ELECTIMUSS LONDON VESPER REVERIE
Described as a “garden at dusk”, perfumer Arturetto Landi’s extrait de parfum is an olfactory crescendo: smoky base notes that include oud, leather, sandalwood and amber, are layered by florals such as Hibiscus, Jasmine and Lily of the Valley, and topped by blackcurrant, peach, mango and apple – fruits ripened under the fading sun, and intensified by the depth of green tea. “It recalls an unforgettable chapter in my life years ago in Tokyo, where I was immersed in the serenity of a tea ceremony. The air was alive with the spellbinding diffusion of Kyara – a sacred grade of agarwood – its smoke curling gently around the delicate aroma of freshly brewed green tea.” Pure parfum/extrait 100ml, £260; electimuss.com
SHALIMAR L’ESSENCE
Guerlain has introduced a modern version of Shalimar, the iconic amber fragrance created by Jacques Shalimar in 1925, to celebrate its centenary. Perfumer Delphine Jelk has added a Madagascan vanilla tincture, intensifying the fragrance without losing its essence: subtle bergamot illuminates the floral heart, which blends rose absolute with powdery iris. Amber unfolds in deep notes, the vanilla infusing it with new woody facets, enveloped by musks that did not exist a century ago. Eau de Parfum Intense 30ml ÂŁ78; 50ml ÂŁ109; 90ml ÂŁ137; guerlain.com
ORMONDE JAYNE SYBARITE
A newly released gourmand unisex fragrance with a sweet and spicy profile, including notes of hazelnut, pink pepper, vanilla, and orris. The fragrance is inspired by London’s Old Bond Street where the house has a flagship boutique, and is exclusive to its stores. ormondejayne.com