Alpine adventures - two ways
To stand before the mountains, rock rising before you, colossal, cinematic, is life affirming. Engulfed in this landscape one feels small but totally alive. The air is cleaner, the mind clearer, and every synapse inside the body is charged. This is nature’s reset: a renewal of mind and body that cannot be found in a supplement or fluorescent-lit gym. Add the charm of Alpine hotels and a focus on wellness and the shortest of escapes can be restorative. We head to the western-central side of the mountains to survey the best experiences in two resorts in the Swiss and French Alps
SWISS BLISS
The village of Wengen. Photography: Yura Lytkin at Unsplash
WENGEN
There is something wonderfully unpretentious about Wengen, a small Swiss village of traditional wooden chalets overlooking the three iconic peaks of the Bernese Alps: the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. It rests on a terrace 400 metres above the Lauterbrunnen valley – a corner of the world where meadow meets waterfall, which is said to have influenced J.R.R. Tolkien’s Rivendell – and is reached by a train that chugs up the steep incline through breathtaking scenery. It is a place to recharge, and a hiker’s and skier’s paradise. During the summer, the sound of cowbells drift in the air as you traverse well-trodden paths across the mountains – and nothing quite compares to climbing down the cliffside and emerging from woodland to sweeping vistas over Lauterbrunnen. During winter, the skiing in Wengen and nearby Grindelwald and Mürren is family friendly with easy access to the mountains via cable cars and trains. There’s also sledging, ice skating and winter walks to keep everyone occupied.
Where to stay:
Many of the hotels in this part of the world are simple and authentic, but for five-star comfort look to the Grand Hotel Belvedere, originally built in 1912 as a Belle Époque hotel, and reopened at the end of 2024 following an extensive renovation by the French hotelier Beaumier. It has 90 rooms, two restaurants, two bars, a terrace and a contemporary Susanne Kaufmann spa, which is an experience in itself: from the Japanese onsen-style indoor-outdoor pools, saunas and hammam, to treatments using natural Alpine botanicals – set against panoramic mountain views. Kaufmann also has a pop-up boutique (until March) where you can pick-up beauty essentials from the collection to take home.
What to do:
Ride to Männlichen: Take the 10-minute aerial cableway from Wengen to Männlichen for panoramic views of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau peaks. From there, walk the gentle Royal Walk or hike toward Kleine Scheidegg.
Hike the Alpine Trails: Enjoy late-season hiking along open trails with cooler daytime temperatures (11–15°C). Great options include the romantic path from Kleine Scheidegg to Wengernalp or exploring the scenic Lauterbrunnen Valley below.
Visit Jungfraujoch - Top of Europe: Board the cogwheel train up to the highest railway station in Europe at 3,454 meters for year-round snow, the Sphinx observation deck, and the Ice Palace. Check weather forecasts first and go only on a clear day
Explore Schilthorn and Piz Gloria: Take the journey via Lauterbrunnen and Mürren to visit the revolving restaurant featured in James Bond, offering 360-degree alpine views.
A view of Wengen from the Grand Hotel Belvedere. Photography: Lucas Dutertry
The lobby at the Grand Hotel Belvedere. Photography: Lucas Dutertry
Gstaad
A view of Gstaad village. Photography: Abhishek Navlakha at www.pexels.com
A Bernese Oberland village of chocolate box chalets famed for its luxury boutiques and fine dining but imbued with a charm that belies the glamour. Talk to locals and they tell you of a time when actor Elizabeth Taylor called it home (she lived in Gstaad until her death in 1962), pointing out the house she lived in, and the bronze cow sculpture drinking from a communal water trough that was commissioned by Taylor's artist daughter, Liza Todd-Tivey, as a tribute to her mother. The people here are equally as proud of their world-class tennis and polo tournaments, and the Gstaad Menuhin Festival of classical concerts, as the village’s world-class skiing, and if you take a guided walking tour (highly recommended), you will fall for the stunning scenery. In winter, it offers extensive ski slopes across multiple areas (Eggli, Wispile, Glacier 3000 ) catering to all levels, from beginner-friendly runs to expert freeriding on the glacier.
Where to stay:
There are several storied hotels in this region, including the famed Gstaad Palace, but The Alpina mixes impeccable service with a friendly approach and next level cuisine wrapped up in quiet luxury. There is also a focus on maintaining the privacy of guests, which includes underground arrival and parking. There’s 56 rooms and suites with a modern-rustic aesthetic that is akin to staying in a private chalet (each cost around £3.9mn to create), plus four restaurants (including the Michelin-starred Sommet), a private cinema, and a state-of-the-art Six Senses spa. It’s also just two miles from a ski lift. This month, the hotel is hosting live music evenings, which includes an appearance by the Voice UK winner Anthonia Edwards (on 31st January) and from 10th to 20th February is welcoming London's private members' club Harry's Bar, which will recreate its experience at the hotel.
What to do:
Attend Country Night Gstaad: Experience the popular annual country music festival held every September, bringing major international and local performers to the alpine village.
Visit Glacier 3000: Ride the cable car up to nearly 10,000 feet for panoramic views of the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc, and cross the thrilling Peak Walk suspension bridge.
Explore Lake Lauenen (Lauenensee): Take a calm half-day trip to this picturesque mountain lake surrounded by forests and waterfalls.
A view of The Alpina Gstaad. Photography courtesy of The Alpina Gstaad
FRENCH CHARM
A train rides through the mountains around Chamonix. Photography: Gregory Dalleau at Unsplash
Courchevel
A jet-set playground of Michelin-starred restaurants and designer boutiques with a glamorous nightlife. Part of the famous Three Valleys ski domain, one of the largest in the world with access to 600km of marked pistes, it is composed of five villages: Courchevel 1850, which is the most famous and luxurious; Courchevel Moriond (1,650m) and Courchevel Village (1,550m) are generally more family-friendly and less pretentious; Courchevel Le Praz (1,300m) is a traditional, charming French village with an authentic feel; and Courchevel La Tania (1,400m), which was purpose-built for the 1992 Winter Olympics and provides great access to the wider ski area at a more affordable price. The resort is considered excellent for all levels, from beginners to experts, due to its vast, well-groomed pistes and extensive lift system. In summer, the area is an idyll of hiking, mountain biking, climbing, golf, swimming and fishing.
Where to stay:
Maya Hotel Courchevel 1850 is a new boutique hotel, which opened in December in the heart of Courchevel just 60m from the slopes. There are 14 rooms and the decor is embellished with detailing by Lalique – including a dedicated Lalique Suite. Expect good service and flexibility: it’s possible to connect rooms and suites, or book an entire floor as an independent chalet with full hotel services. The hotel is part of the Maya Collection, a hospitality group that began with Monaco's MayaBay Japanese-Thai restaurant, opened in 2007, and an outpost of the MayaBay has been created at this residence. Pampering is also a focus and advanced treatments are offered at Maya Well.
What to do:
Hiking and Nature Trails: Explore alpine paths like the walk to Lacs Merlet in the Vanoise National Park or around Lac de la Rosière. September brings cooler temperatures and striking autumn colors.
Cycling and Mountain Biking: Ride the famous Col de la Loze route, which climbs to an altitude of 2,304 meters, enjoying much quieter roads than mid-summer.
Via Ferrata: Test your climbing skills on the local via ferrata routes with views overlooking Lac de la Rosière.
Mushroom Foraging: Take advantage of September's seasonal forest growth to hunt for wild mushrooms in the surrounding woods
The new Maya Hotel Courchevel 1850. Photography courtesy of Maya Hotel Courchevel
A glimpse of Chamonix. Photography: Jonathan Fors at Unsplash
Chamonix
Nestled at the foot of Mont Blanc, this lively, cosmopolitan Alpine town is famed for its world-class mountaineering (it is widely considered the birthplace of the sport) and tough slopes – although it caters to skiers of all levels. It is also fabulous for shopping – here you can buy Moncler, alongside activewear from Patagonia and pick up selections of local cheeses – as well as fine dining. In summer the resort is a reverie where one can spend days mountain biking, paragliding and mountaineering, and it boasts the famed Aiguille du Midi cable car and Mer de Glace railway. If you are arriving in winter to ski, the valley features five areas: Grands Montets, located between 1,235 and 2,800 metres, is home to steep and deep challenging pistes (best for expert/off-piste); Le Brévent and La Flégère (2,525 metres) are the closest skiing areas to Chamonix’s main town centre (which are sunny and panoramic); Les Houches is a charming, traditional village at altitudes of between 1,000 and 1,900 metres with panoramic views (family-friendly/tree-lined); and Domaine de Balme, the gentlest of Chamonix's snowy areas, has over 140km of marked runs.
Where to stay:
Hôtel Mont-Blanc The historic five-star hotel, which first opened in 1849, was acquired by the Taittinger family in 2010 and underwent major renovation by interior designer Sybille de Margerie, reopening in 2013 (but is now a member of H8 Collection group). It is small but beautiful, fusing traditional Alpine charm with contemporary chic. Encamped at the heart of the town it’s connected to all that is going on, but the bedrooms (some with panorama of mountains) in this 90-room residence are restful, and complemented by the 250m Clarins spa. There’s plenty to do around the hotel, from testing your swing on the nearby Golf Club de Chamonix golf course in the summer to skiing and mountaineering – the Aiguille du Midi Cable Car is also close by.
What to do:
Hike to Lac Blanc: Take the cable car to Flégère or L'Index and hike to this famous alpine lake to see Mont Blanc reflected in the water with fewer people on the trails.
Ride the Aiguille du Midi Cable Car: Go up to 3,842 meters for incredible views of the high peaks before late-season lift schedules change.
Visit the Mer de Glace: Ride the historic Montenvers Railway cog train to see France's largest glacier and walk through the ice caves.
Try Tandem Paragliding: Fly high above the valley with an experienced local pilot to see the Alps from the air.
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